The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez model, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as a defining name in English shoemaking.
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